As sunshine and warmth is slowly settling back into Cairo, I've once again begun to slide back into my routine stroll along the Nile from my (new beautiful) flat on the tip of the Zamalek island to the university downtown. Outdoor cafes with chairs set out on the streets are filling back up, and the streets seem to be busier than ever.
However, awakened somewhat from my initial enchantment with the city and its locals, I'm suddenly re-realizing how much I don't fit into any of it. As a six foot tall semi-blondie "khawaga" (foreigner), it's nearly impossible to avoid the stares and sexist comments encountered daily on the streets. I've learned to avoid the worst of it, picking up a conservative style of dress and keeping my eyes glued in front of me, resisting the urge to let my eyes stray to someone "hissing" for my attention or what appears to be something interesting along my path. I of course could choose to lash out with a local Egyptian slur in Arabic (I know the best of them) instead of accepting my seemingly defeatest attitutde, but I feel like taking a non-confrontational approach is somewhat better--at least it avoids some bad karma.
But Fridays are different. I LOVE Fridays. And not just because I don't have school (Fridays and Saturdays are the weekends here.) Friday is the holy day for Muslims. Nearly everyone goes to the mosques to pray, and there are so many people that the prayers spill out into the streets. Hundreds of people unroll their green carpets onto the ground outside of the mosque, slip off their shoes, and pray in the Muslim fashion or simply sit while listening to the imam from the loud speaker. While sometimes I get nervous walking into a big crowd of men standing near the carpets, despite being nearly the only woman around, this is seemingly the only time where I am basically ignored. And what a blessing it is to be ignored sometimes! No matter how tight my jeans are or how "Western" I look, the men simply pretend as if I am not there. Actually when they see me coming they make every effort they can to divert their eyes, and would only under the most necessary circumstances actually speak to me.
While I'm certainly not any kind of religious fanatic, I've come to see Islam in Egypt as one of its best aspects. In a place where women are not greeted with a great deal of respect (at least Western women that is), Islam is the constant reminder to people here to behave themselves and keep their dignity. Though I wish it was a 7 day a week policy, I'm at least thankful for Fridays.
posted by Katie Warren @ 1:36 PM
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